Bocce Court Kit
Boccemon sells a great surface but no “kits”. People should buy perimeter and base materials locally. We ship our Rain Country blend wherever freight is delivered, and have gone to great lengths to prove this point.
Bocce Court Perimeters
This page offers different perimeter styles. All are great options but suited to different environments and site conditions. They require a builder understand plumb; level; square; and why they are important.
6” x 6” Perimeter
Thanks, Tom Zachary for allowing us to use the 6" x 6" perimeter drawing.Constructing a court perimeter with 6”x 6” or any oversized timbers is the easiest of the styles we discuss but assumes several strong backs are available. Provided one chooses straight lumber and has a leveled site it’s just a matter of drilling and driving ½” rebar stakes through for support. Stacking two high and centering the top row over the seams of the lower will also strengthen the structure after they are secured together with rebar stakes.
Seams can be square or cut to fit. For a different aesthetic cap the timber with Trex or a 2”x8”. This court is simple to construct and suits most players. We recommend some type of buffer at each court end to absorb the impact of overshot balls. The first thing to go on most courts is an end wall due to the constant pounding they take. Some suspend sheet steel or attach rubber fenders. We suggest a piece of the original 5/4” TREX decking across each end.
Post and Plank Style
This next perimeter style requires a fair attention to detail plus soil that is conducive to the digging of post holes. Posts placed every 5’ is what we recommend.
Doubling up 2” planks is one method. Using straight lumber of 3” or 4" thickness gives a nice consistent bounce for players who like the billiards aspect of the game.
Either of these styles can be capped.
Cities, park departments, and community recreation facilities are discovering that bocce courts help create community. Many players live in climates where concrete is a better choice for perimeter walls. The biggest issue with balls in contact with cement is the abrasive action and filing of the balls that take place. Also, most non-Italian manufactured balls will shatter on impact if they are sent with force into cement end rails. Some use a rubberized “paint” that is in constant need of reapplication.
Others attach a wood or composite liner around the inside being careful to place the countersunk fasteners where rolling balls will never make contact.
If the bumper is set in the concrete form prior to pouring it has a more permanent bond.
If a fastener fails and some dirt or a rock gets between the wall and the railing it won’t ever reattach and keep the original line. I learned in Phoenix recently that some parts of the country are very adept at attaching things to cement and this rarely happens.